Vanessa Bruno

Vanessa Bruno’s Winter 2013-14 Pre-collection has been designed like an uncluttered clean-cut wardrobe striving for essentials that tell a story.

It comes down to two colours, or almost two colours, sumptuous winter whites, pearl grey and navy blue in noble materials that are luxurious to touch. There is the military feeling, long woollen cloth coats without shiny gold buttons, nothing formal, more like some delicate work of piping and details.

A fragile slip dress with the lightness of silk hemmed with black pearls, catching a glimpse of a flash of satin on the inside and a black jet embroidered neckline. Officer styled jackets with piping and pleated details. Chic and confortable handmade knits in cashmere and wool alpaca.

Striped graphics are broken by large phantom lines on low-slung pants or sailor trousers. All these inherited details are found in abundance on each and every garment, a wool gabardine skirt incrusted with chiffon panels, or perhaps silk strips embroidered with pearls – structured with a straight fluid top.

Some of these silk chiffon dresses have a coy negligee semblance to the Thirties and are worn with masculine cashmere sweaters and express with refinement a new grunge romantic minimal attitude.

Panne velvet is combined with chiffon and crepe Georgette in strips that deconstruct the silhouette and at the same time accentuate the relaxed attitude that runs through the collection. Simple and complex; structured and supple. This collection harmonizes the contrasts, matt and shiny, heavier materials associated with lighter ones.

The characteristic features of this winter pre-collection is that it embodies what is to-day a Vanessa Bruno wardrobe : a nonchalant spirit of a woman who throws on a goatskin and leather striped biker jacket over a light dress and has bare legs in calfskin biker boots. She can wear with equal elegance a white pleated man’s shirt with wool sailor trousers and patent leather sandals.

Here is a collection that gives off vibes of romanticism with an underlying rawness, a natural state slightly masculine without being really obvious.